MX5Ireland

Hi everyone

People often wonder how to turbocharge an mx5. Instead of replying individual questions, why not compile a parts-list?

It can be done for fairly cheap if you can make some of the parts yourself. It's time vs cost really, but first check if your budget and fabrication skills match your expectations before you start and turn it into a money pit or unfinished project

I'll cover the early 1.6 MK1 first, please chime in for 1.8 MK2 stuff.

Also there are many ways to skin a cat, the parts listed here are only a suggestion and provided as it. I'm no guru and just made mine this way. Yes, you certainly can have a bigger or smaller turbo, a water to air exchanger or no intercooler at all, water injection etc... Here is a recipe for 200whp on standard internals, but it can defo be done differently or with different results.

To spread the costs and avoid having the car off the road for too long, you can upgrade the fuelling while the car is still N/A, and gather or fabricate other bits in the meantime.

Fuelling

Aftermarket management
-From DIYAutotune:
Megasquirt Plug And Play (assembled kit) "MSPNP"
Megasquirt DIYPNP (unassembled kit)
You'll also need an Inlet Air Temperature sensor and its bung to be able to get rid of the Air Flow Meter

-From ExtraEFI:
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/MX5.html

Air Fuel Ratio/Wideband kit
Several brands out there:
AEM Innovate PLX etc..

Injectors
They need to flow enough for your power goals. there are calculators online for this.
I got mine second hand. Mazda Rx8 450cc/min yellow injectors from the 6port "sport" engine, and they are in their comfort zone at ~80% duty cycles.
Alternatively:
RC 440s


Turbo

Turbocharger
Mine is a Holset HX25, but that's pretty close to a TD04-13t. You can get a TD04-15t on Saab Aero models, with a T25 inlet flange. Turbo sizing and budget would require a separate topic I guess, so i won't go into details for now.

Air filter to match your turbo

Exhaust manifold
Has to suit your turbo's turbine housing inlet flange.
DIY route:
I made mine from Schedule 40 mild steel thick pipe. Purchased the flanges from eBay at QPS.
Vendors:
ARTech
If your turbo has a T3 footprint, there is a cast iron one you can search on eBay "1989-1993 MAZDA MIATA EUNOS ROADSTER 1.6L B6 CAST IRON TURBO MANIFOLD T3/T4"

Downpipe
Has to suit the bolt pattern of your turbo's exhaust flange, and fit your exhaust's 3 bolt inlet flange if you are on the standard exhaust. Also made mine from a bare flange.

Oil feed
Got mine here

Oil return/drain
Got a "Turbo Oil Drain Line Garrett T3 T4 35cm 10AN Teflon" from the same shop as above, but item no longer available.
You will also need a drill and tap for the sump to match the fitting of your drain..

Cooling

Intercooler
I bought that on eBay: "FMIC FRONT MOUNT TURBO INTERCOOLER 550x225x64MM 2.5" for £65, but the listing has expired. Pretty good fit on my MK1

Intercooler piping
Made mine from stainless 2.5" dairy piping. Bends cost around 7€ each from the top of my head, straight pipe is quite cheap.

Intercooler silicone couplers
...to suit 2.5" piping. Bought from Apex Motoring on eBay
3x "2.5" To 2.5" 4 Ply 90 Degree Turbo Silicone Coupler Hose Pipe" (at the intercooler and throttle body)
3x "3ply 2.5" to 2''inch Straight reducer 76.2mm SILICONE HOSE COUPLER PIPE" (from the turbo's air compressor 2" outlet)

Clamps for silicone couplers
Got mine from Apex-Motoring as well:
8x "2.5" inch Turbo Pipe Hose Coupler T-bolt Clamps Stainless Steel 67/75mm"
1x "2" inch Turbo Pipe Hose Coupler dual T-bolt Clamps Stainless Steel 54 to 62mm" (for the compressor outlet at the turbo)

Alternatively, a plug and play kit is available from Fast5 here


Optional/supporting mods:

-Big bore exhaust
-Spark plugs. NGK BKR7E (new ref is 4644) or BKR7EIX (Iridium)
-1.8 flywheel
-1.8 clutch assembly. Just bought a paddle clutch disk from XTD, seems to hold well so far.. Alternatively: Flyin Miata clutch


-1.8 oem Torsen diff
-Exhaust Gas Temperature thermocouple sensor and 0-5v converter.
-BMW e36 Variable Throttle Position Sensor.. PM Rhysmate for this adapter
-Coil On Plugs ignition conversion, using Toyota 1.8 VVTi COPs
-Dump valve
-MazdaSpeed engine mounts

Resources - Useful links
http://miataturbo.wikidot.com
Flyin' Miata Instructions



Feel free to add your input below!

Nico

[Place holder]

Side exit screamer pipes and mad blue gauges are essential.

fast5.co.uk sells a nice intercooler kity that will perfectly fit without modifications
url: http://fast5.co.uk/index.php?route=prod ... duct_id=60



for a cheap but good manifold I would say: 1989-1993 MAZDA MIATA EUNOS ROADSTER 1.6L B6 CAST IRON TURBO MANIFOLD T3/T4 (ebay: 121637561740)


About the megasquirt: http://www.extraefi.co.uk/MX5.html (650 euros, from UK so no import costs)

Other optional extras

- big bore exhaust
- e36 throttle position sensor.. we can supply an adaptor for this
- COP conversion. There are plenty of guides on how to do it. I used Yaris coil packs

Also, the first thing you should buy is an ecu and wide band sensor. Learn how to use them and get the car running properly.

This is btw a nice howto: https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/inst ... turbos.pdf

Thanks for your input lads, I've added them to the list, amongst a few others
Nico

bought my manifold(s) from http://www.artechfabrication.com/


downpipe from Turbo Tony in the US ($290 + shipping) :


RC440 injectors (I've seen them for $200 recently) :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Fuel-Injecto ... 0039029686

Saab 390cc injectors also work.

A Link ECU can be picked up for reasonable money these days if you keep an eye on classifieds, it comes with knock sensor, map sensor and air temp sensor.

Flyin Miata clutch (ACT HD replacement?) :
https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html

Mazdaspeed engine mounts :
http://trackdogracing.com/mazdaspeedmotormounts.aspx

lots more info here too :
http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/

Thanks Steve.
Added a resources/Links section..
Nico

Are adjustable cam gears a must?

emarkey wrote:Are adjustable cam gears a must?

i don't know anyone running them on their turbo setup, so no, they aren't mandatory...

Nico

Anyone using standard ecu with bipes? And standard injectors? I think with this setup there is a limit of about 8psi boost or so I believe... What's the best way to control the boost and be sure the actuator/waste gate pressure is below 8psi?

I think the old HKS and Greddy kits used a BIPES Ecu and 1.8 injectors on the 1.6 engine.
To achieve low boost you need a soft spring in the actuator. Then you adjust the rod at the actuator to fine tune it to your desired level of boost.
To control boost at higher boost settings you can use a boost controller, but that's only to raise the boost from the base/spring value, not lower it.

Nico

Thanks nico!
Also if anyone has any turbo bits knocking around they want to sell let me know.

Thanks.