by franksm » Tue, 28 May 2013 4:24 +0000
hey dude
Are you handy with a multimeter ? If so, read on. If not, ignore the following as it'll be as useful as you reading an eyetest in Polish
You can check the O2 sensor, AirFlowMeter (AFM) and temperature sender in situ right where they are on the engine, and/or you can test for them at the ECU. Either way, here are the pins and numbers to check for (letters in square brackets are the wire colours):
- AFM (ECU pin 2O) - should show 3.8V on your voltmeter at start or idle; [R] wire at ECU; [LG/R] at AFM
- Temp sensor at back of cylinder head - should be 2.5V cold, 0.4v after warmup [B/LG] ECU pin 2Q
- O2 sensor – ign on, engine stopped should show 0v; idle on cold engine also 0V; idle on warm, 0 to 1V); increase rpm engine warm, 0.5 to 1.0V); deceleration 0 to 0.4V); ECU pin 2N
- Intake air sensor (within the AFM) – at 20 deg C should read approx. 2.5V. [R/G] wire going to ECU 2P
- Injectors should be 12 to 16 ohms each
- Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) - should be 7V when ignition on with engine stopped, 9 volts during idle. ECU pin 2W
- ISCV – engine warm, disconnect the wiring plug and check for clicking at idle; idle should also increase to 1200rpm
- ISCV – check resistance – 11..13 ohm at 20 degrees C
- Throttle dashpot rod = check resistance, press rod with your finger and make sure it returns
- Throttle dashpot setup = engine at 4000rpm, slowly reduce to 2500rpm and check throttle lever just touched dashpot rod at this speed
- PCV valve – clamp hose and check RPMs do not fall. If it falls, check PCV valve
It's a small world after all. It's a small, small world