Car won't start - think I need a coil pack?

[sidewaysreilly]

yeah, get him to check for voltage at the connector on the coil pack, i have details somewhere.

[sidewaysreilly]

Find the diagnosis connector box on passenger side under bonnet, i think its clearly labelled. Open it and connect a jumper wire or an opened out paper clip between terminals F/P and GND. Connections are labelled under the lid. If the engine will now start, the circuit opening relay may be at fault.

Sean.

[jennytree]

Ah, I've seen the diagnostics box alright, will get him to give it a try!

Thanks for the help!

[jennytree]

Bit of an update to this...

Car got a replacement crankshaft position sensor and it's going one step further as it's now sparking (from what I can gather from talks with me Da!), but we're now thinking that the immobiliser is stopping it from starting as the battery has been dead for so long now.

Any ideas as to how to get the immobiliser disabled or reactivated to test out the theory?

[Steve]

ground FP at the diagnostics box.

Is it coughing at all?

[sidewaysreilly]

i suggested that too.........its worth a try.

[jennytree]

Don't know if it was coughing or getting quite that far!

I've hunted down a diagram of the diagnostics box, as there was nothing on the lid of it oddly enough.

If it does start, what's the next step? If it doesn't, what else could we try?

[sidewaysreilly]

its a mk 2 and most folk here will have good advice on the mk 1 . If you are looking for advice here and then going to a mechanic who obviously cant get to the root of the problem, i would suggest putting it on a dealer computer before you waste any more money. A good auto electrician should be able to eliminate the immobiliser. Maybe arrange for some of us to go see the car and sort it for you once and for all.

[ger]

I had immobilser problems on a renault, the key fob kept loosing sink with the car. There was a way of switching it off with a dealer code (which i got from the web) The code was input using the central locking button and the flashing led (1 flash =1 etc).

Try a search for something similar before going near a mazda dealer.

[jennytree]

Hi everyone!

I finally got my car up and running! Bloody delighted with it, and it's running much better than it was before it died on me!

However, it's still a little dodgy when starting. It'll turn over, start, then die. It'll do this once or twice, but on the 2nd or 3rd go it'll start no problem. It'll then idle very high (2000-2200) for about 30seconds or so before settling down (around 1000).

Any ideas?

[Steve]

great to hear its running again!

You might have an air leak in your intake tubes, reseat and tighten up the connections from the intake manifold to the Air Flow Meter. When the car is running have a listen and see if you can hear the leak either.

Steve

[jennytree]

Another suggestion is the oxygen sensor has gone dodge. Would this produce the same results if it is gone?