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Rust Killer

Postby rhysmate » Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:37 +0000

I'm trying to find a good rust killer for the mx5. i have alot of sill rust that ill be cutting out soon and want to coat in behind them with something that will kill any rust. also any surface rust under the car to get it ready for a full underseal.

Cleancar.ie have the following

http://www.cleancar.ie/por-15-prep-and-ready.html

http://www.cleancar.ie/dinitrol-ml-3125-cavity-wax.html

http://www.cleancar.ie/bilt-hamber-deox-c.html

I'd love to hear what other ppl have used in the past. I'm not too worried about the cost of it as long it does the job!
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Re: Rust Killer

Postby sidewaysreilly » Fri, 14 Jun 2013 6:37 +0000

Jenolite. Dont know where you get it here tho. Try googling a supplier. Great tack.
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Re: Rust Killer

Postby [L'e$kro] » Sat, 15 Jun 2013 9:09 +0000

I'm no expert in this, but I think you are talking about 2 different products Rhysmate
To remove existing rust in areas you can't brush/blast, you have to use a rust converter, which turns rust into something more stable
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter
I think that's what the POR15 "prep and ready" and the 3rd link do this..
For frame rails and other cavities where you can't paint like inside the sills, wax seems like a good option (your second link)
To avoid any reactions/incompatibilities between products it's worth going with one brand.
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Re: Rust Killer

Postby sidewaysreilly » Sat, 15 Jun 2013 7:05 +0000

You must treat rust with an acid treatment and then seal it with a zinc rich primer . Waxing over untreated rust will be a disaster as it will seal in the salt laden moisture and accelerate the galvanic cell causing the rust. Cure is cut it out or treat it,prime it, paint it .we have found in the marine environment that if the salts get trapped under the wax then the corrosion accelerates.
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Re: Rust Killer

Postby sifpilsen » Sat, 15 Jun 2013 8:00 +0000

On my previous car, in Norway, I used first a round attachment for a drill with hard, but not metal brush to file down. Watch it using drill bits, they eat through metal in no time. The rust hole turned out to be 2 inches long and almost 1 inch across at the widest before I had clear metal on all edges. I used filler, nothing special, just car filler for paintwork. I had a friend that had been working for a paintshop before to help. It needed to be sanded and filled again before it was possible to prime and paint. I used a black undercoating paint, elastic and thick, covered the whole length of the canal.

This was not a long term job, just something to stop it for now. I recommend doing this on a hot day (I know, hard to find in Ireland) or inside in a heated area so you can get the different layers to dry faster and set better. The top coating should cover and protect against any moisture and air to get to it again, until you can get it done properly, which would be to cut out damaged areas and weld in replacement metal.
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Re: Rust Killer

Postby Quinlanar » Sun, 16 Jun 2013 4:42 +0000

Ive used the bilt hamber detox gel and its good stuff you use very little of it but you do have to sand off the heavy first and make sure its air tight with clingfilm but after that it does a good job of stopping rust in its tracks
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Re: Rust Killer

Postby fez » Mon, 17 Jun 2013 1:31 +0000

I've used POR15 on a motorbike fuel tank before, 3 stage process, wash/prep, convert old rust and then epoxy sealer. Worked great although it says to add water and allow the unused epoxy to harden. I put the lid back on and it exploded all over the back door of my house.
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